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| Image via WWD.com |
Lately I’ve been questioning the implicit ethical guidelines that
govern the fashion community. Let me explain why. We have labels that
only use vegan leather and other organic materials, we have beauty
companies that will not test on animals, and we have brands and fashion
icons that donate to charities all over the world. However, even the
most socially conscious brands run into PR nightmares, which for the
most part, are borne out of sheer ignorance rather than conscious
unethical behavior. A recent example of this situation that I’d like to
examine is the Louis Vuitton trunk erected in Moscow’s Red Square that
has managed to stir up a tremendous amount of controversy, so much so
that the trunk has since been dismantled.
I will admit, when I
first saw a picture of the structure I was in awe, it was marvelous! In
my opinion it receives perfect marks for evoking brand awareness and
creativity, concurrent with creating a sense of nostalgia, as it is
meant to replicate a
vintage trunk, while also making it modern
and very avant-garde due to the large size of the monument, coming in at
102 feet long and 30 feet high. It was created to house “The Soul of
Travel” exhibit, which would put 30 iconic Louis Vuitton suitcases on
display, the suitcases are associated with icons such as Great Garbo,
Catherine, Deneuve, and many more. The show was part of a long line of
glamorous events planned for this year, to mark the 120
th anniversary of GUM, a Russian retail center.
Representatives
from Louis Vuitton state the company received all necessary
authorization to build the temporary venue in the center of the Red
Square and claim the exhibit’s purpose was to strengthen the already
strong relationship the brand has with Russia. So what was the problem?
From a marketing perspective, it appeared as if this was a perfect
opportunity for Louis Vuitton- located at an extremely popular location,
the monument would receive tons of press and international recognition
due to both its size and creative appearance, and there was even a
star-studded party organized last Friday to kick off the exhibit. It
appears as though the issue lies within its main attribute: the
location, the giant suitcase blocks the iconic view of the Saint Basil’s
Cathedral, which has caused outrage from both Russian civilians and
political leaders.
In response, Louis Vuitton immediately began to
dismantle the temporary venue and representatives are currently
scouting other locations to house the magnificent exhibit that I’m sure
had taken months to plan and execute. So who is at fault? Louis Vuitton
for appearing to be insensitive to the Russian people? The retail
company they were celebrating? Or the officials who granted permission
for the temporary venue to be built?
In theory, both the officials
and the Russian retail company should have been fully aware of how
sacred this location is to both the Russian people as well as to local
politicians, however, Louis Vuitton, whether deserved or not, is the one
receiving the backlash from this controversy.
So the question
remains, how far is too far in fashion? Should luxury brand giants, like
Louis Vuitton, receive a carte blanche when events like this occur?
Obviously Vuitton has not “won” this one but this is not the first time
nor is it the last that a well-known brand will be under scrutiny for
its marketing tactics. Furthermore, I wonder what would happen if we
looked at this from an artistic standpoint, many respected artists have
done such things where they erect large and temporary monuments all over
the world, sometimes without permission, and yet they may get a slap on
the wrist. The art for the most part is not meant to offend people to
such a degree as this suitcase apparently has and many admire the art
especially when it is put on such a large scale. Is the suitcase not
just a giant art piece? An expression of art from a brand that has given
artists themselves, such as Stephen Sprouse, the opportunity to meet
the masses and become instantly respected within both the art and
fashion world.
Of course I’m not a representative from either
party so my opinion is simply from the perspective of an outsider
reading about the event, however I do think this occurrence is a perfect
opportunity to examine the implicit ethical guidelines that govern the
fashion community. Art will always evoke feedback, sometimes negative
and sometimes positive, so perhaps the suitcase fulfilled its duty as a
piece of art.
